And that's good. Because learning the lesson of WATER IS SUPER POWERFUL - RESPECT THE WATER - is a very good lesson to learn early.
He didn't give up.
Soon he learned which waves to bob over and which waves to dive into. He learned how to time his launches. And he learned that some waves would smack him into the sand and/or his board. (I think we've all gotten a few bruises.) But ultimately he learned that when you catch a wave just right, and it lifts you up instead of pushing you down, it's SO MUCH FUN!